Name: MWC 1940s/1950s "Dirty Dozen" Pattern General Service Watch with 24 Jewel Hand Winding Swiss SW216 Movement and Box Sapphire Crystal
SKU: 269643

This classic hand wound 24 jewel 1940s/1950s pattern MWC military watch with a Swiss Sellita 24 jewel SW216 movement and small subsidiary dial second hand is based on the typical designs used by the British military from the 1940s to the 1950s, it retains the appearance of the original watch although the increased water resistance to 100 m (330 feet) when combined with the shatter and scratch resistant sapphire box crystal greatly increases durability whilst at the same time, the crystal retains the outward appearance of the original plexiglass without any of the drawbacks!

This watch has a heavy stainless steel satin finish case made from Military Grade 316L stainless steel, subsidiary dial second hand, hacking function, black dial and luminous markings. The watch also has a historically accurate canvas strap as used in the 1940s and 50s.

The final image shows the original 12 watches which were made by 12 companies, Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, Jaeger Le-Coultre, Lemania, Longines, IWC, Omega, Record, Timor and Vertex, MWC were not a manufacturer at this time having been founded in 1974 but this watch is very much in the spirit of the originals.

Photo Credit:

For anyone interested in the history of the Dirty Dozen these links show the 12 original watches and explain the history.

* A lot of people ask us what are the benefits of sapphire crystal over the original plexiglass? The answer is that synthetic sapphire is by far the best material for watch crystals because it is very strong and also shatter and scratch resistant, these characteristics make it very appealing to military and security personnel, police officers and people who lead active outdoor lifestyles, these groups account for over 70% of our customers. The original plexiglass crystals which were made of a plastic/acrylic type material and were frequently used up until the 1980s suffered the drawback that firstly they were very easily scratched and secondly, it wasn't overly difficult to crack them if they were impacted, the other drawback is that they greatly limited the water resistance of the watch. To get things into perspective we find that when clients manage to crack a crystal over 90% are usually watches with mineral glass or plexiglass crystals, even factoring in that we use hardened mineral crystals in many watches they still do not come close to sapphire for durability under adverse conditions. The reason that sapphire crystals are so strong is that after the sapphire glass is manufactured it is also heat-treated to remove its internal stresses—which can cause weakness—it is then made into the watch crystals and two layers of anti-reflective coating are applied. Of course sapphire crystal comes at a price hence you find that it's normally only fitted to higher specification watches.

SWISS SELLITA SW216 MOVEMENT WINDING GUIDELINES

To wind the SW216 from an empty state to full, you'll need approximately 20 to 25 turns of the crown (most other handwound watches will need 30 to 40 turns so this movement needs significantly less). Once fully wound, the watch boasts an average power reserve of around 42 hours. It's crucial to exercise caution during the winding process, because when the locking crown is being secured it adds an additional 3 or 4 winds while it is being screwed down so this must be factored in, especially given that most handwound watches of this type lack a screw-down crown which is something we decided to add to these watches to increase the water resistance rating to 100m/330ft.

For those who wear the watch on a daily basis and wind it consistently, say, every morning, a slight variation in the number of turns will not significantly impact the overall power reserve because it will be well below the maximum of around 42 hours.

Some users have reported that approximately 15/17 turns are sufficient when winding every 24 hours, this seems logical because the watch would not need a full wind after 24 hours. Nevertheless, individual preferences may vary, and most owners tend to develop a sense of the optimal winding routine within the first few days of ownership.

Above all, it's crucial to emphasize the importance of not overwinding** the watch, which could lead to locking up issues or, worse, damage or breakage of the mainspring. Adhering to the recommended winding procedures ensures the longevity and proper functioning of the timepiece.

**To clarify, overwinding occurs when a mechanism is wound beyond its designated stopping point, posing the risk of damage or even destruction to the winding mechanism. It's important to note that overwinding is a concern primarily for manually-wound watches, not for their automatic counterparts which normally cannot be overwound.